From Our Foreign Correspondent
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چکیده
of Israel. Transjordan lost the 'trans' when it gained the West Bank from former parts of Palestine. Once more confined to the further shores of the river, Jordanians live more in hope than expectation of regaining their lost territory. The Allenby Bridge faint echoes of the Raj has become a difficult frontier for anyone to cross, especially Palestinians; yet cross it they must if they wish to see relatives and friends who have stayed behind. I had visited Amman once before on the way home from another tour of examining in Iraq. On that occasion it had been pleasant to exchange the dusty plains of Mesopotamia for the hills and relative greenery of Northern Jordan. Michael Wilson obviously felt the same in coming up from Sarafand in Palestine (that takes some finding on the map). And what of the Italian Hospital? I am sorry to say I do not know, but I expect it is still standing. I did notice a small Italian Hospital in Karak. Here the Crusaders built a castle deep in the hills of Moab and overlooking the Dead Sea. It was defended successfully against Saladin in 1183 but subsequently fell to his brother. Is it true that Saladin could cut a cushion with his (curved) sword, while Coeur de Lion (what a disastrous king) could cut an iron bar with his broadsword? It seems that Saladin was much the better general. Nearby to Karak is the great chasm of Wadi Mujab. Further North lies Madaba, where there is a wonderful 6th Century mosaic on the floor of the local Catholic Church. It is a map of the World that is the Eastern Mediterranean with the Holy City of Jerusalem at the centre. A large fish is depicted swimming in the Jordan against the stream to escape the hostile waters of the Dead Sea (24 per cent saline). Actually the Jordan and the Rio Grande are the world's two most disappointing rivers, closely followed by the Avon at low tide. 'I looked over Jordan and what did I see? A band of angels comin' after me'.
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